Konoba Morgan in Brtonigla was today on my schedule. Another weekend, another restaurant. I’m fighting winter blues in my own way. Konoba Morgan is set just few kilometers from Brtonigla on the road to Buje, with beautiful views over the Istrian vineyards.
Konoba Morgan itself looks more like a fine dining establishment with its artwork, decor, and table set up. Beautiful outside terrace was inviting even on this cold winter day. It just reminded me how awesome the summer in Croatia is. Eating outside is my favorite thing.
My first experience at Konoba Morgan
There were nobody in the restaurant. Normal, considering the weather outside. Still, our group never felt uncomfortable, as you might feel when eating alone in the restaurant.
Konoba Morgan is a family run restaurant. Service is attentive and friendly but not intrusive. We started with some cold cuts (as often in Istrian restaurants). This kind of cold cuts you simply can’t buy. So, when I have a chance to eat homemade cured pork delicacies, I don’t let it go.
The plate consisted of cured ham (prosciutto), home-made sausages, pork shoulder blade meat in bread (my favorite!), cottage cheese (another delicacy!), cheese from the island of Pag (aged, hard cheese), marinated aubergines, olives and extra virgin olive oil Reale.
Olive oil served was single-sort Istrian Bjelica of a very good quality, produced by Marino Kraljevic from Brtonigla, under the brand Reale. Just like Istrian Malvasia, it is really hard to find a bad Istrian olive oil these days.
Next on the menu was a hunter-style soup. I was waiting for this, as one of my friends has been talking for days about that soup. And the soup lived up to my expectations. Real pottage with lots of vegetables – carrots, potatoes, red peppers, mushrooms, even olives – some meat, barley, and vinegar. Spicy and sour. Probably there were more ingredients, but I couldn’t get them all. This soupo alone is worth stopping by Konoba Morgan.
Although Morgan is well known for its meat dishes, especially Istrian cattle Boskarin and game meat, I chose risotto for my main course. Some of my friends went for home-made pasta.
Risotto with red radicchio and sausages was excellent choice and unique in its taste. Home-made pasta, called fuzi, with homegrown chicken (it really tastes so much better!) was also very good.
Morgan has excellent wine list of regional wines. FI don’t drink these days, and my friends order some table malvasia. It was very good.
The price, 25 euros per person including tip. Very fair for the experience I had at konoba Morgan.
Hi Shelly,
sorry for the late reply. You are right that the south is more into fish restaurants. However, if you go a bit inland, you should be able to find more dishes in line with what you are looking for. On the top of my mind, in Konavle village of Gruda, there is a family-run tavern Monkovic. Near Vrgorac, there is a ethno village Kokorici serving traditional dishes (you should call in advance). Above Crikvenica, in the mountains, near Bribir, there is a good local tavern called Vagabundina koliba. Also, from Crikvenica, you can go to Matulji, near Rijeka. There is an excellent tavern Stancija Kovacici. Have a great time in Croatia.
My family came to America from Croatia (Yugoslavia) and I recall some of the dishes you mention especially bean soup with cabbage. I will be traveling from Dubrovnik to Crkvenica (where family lives). Can you recommend any restaurants in Dubrovnik or Crikvenica area that would serve the Croatian dishes you describe in your top things to eat?
Thanks you so much!